Whenever you alter the parameters it really alters how the metal melts.  The first off is voltage and voltage is how hot the beam is.  So first off we're at our 250 volts.  You can see how that melts the ring.  Now if I lower the voltage down, say 200 volts, you can tell it really does not melt the ring at all there's not enough power to melt it.  But if I go the opposite direction say 300 volts, you see how the metal reacts, how it's splattering and all of the deepness and roughness of the edges.  That is too powerful of a voltage.  

Next off is milliseconds.  So again it would be our standard milliseconds here, generally at four milliseconds.  Now go to one millisecond, you can see again there's not enough power to really melt the ring.  But if I go in the opposite direction say 10 milliseconds, and the melt area gets a little bit bigger but it tends to melt out a lot of the alloys in it.  

Next off is the millimeter size.  Again our baseline which is 0.6 millimeters.  Now if I lower the millimeter down to 0.2, it's going to make the beam a lot smaller and more concentrated.  You can see this is really not a very good weld.  As we go the opposite direction, say one millimeter, and it is too large to actually melt anything because the beam is over such a large area.

Next up will be the hertz.  And the hertz is just how fast the machine shoots.  Again this is at three hertz. You see it shoots three times per second.  The hertz have no real bearing on the power of the machine.  Here it's that one hertz see it shoots one time per second.  Then at let's say 13 hertz.

And once you understand what the parameters do to the ring you have a very good understanding of how to laser weld.