Learn tips and recommendations for successfully soldering platinum pieces.
In the world of jewelry making, platinum stands out for its lasting beauty and strength. Every piece made from platinum carries a legacy of durability, destined to be treasured for years. For your customer, the precious metal boasts strength, security, and a dazzling shine, making it the ultimate choice for timeless beauty.
As a bench jeweler, delving into the realm of platinum not only broadens your skill set but also enhances your reputation for new and returning customers. With so many things to keep in mind when working with platinum, you might ask yourself, “Where do I start?”
Whether you're new to working with platinum or a seasoned jeweler, mastering this craft comes down to three things: knowing the metal, using the right tools, and following best practices. Read on as we offer bench tips for soldering with Platinum, giving you the confidence to master your craft one technique at a time.
Platinum Alloy Types and Melting Points
Before we start with soldering techniques, it’s important to recognize different forms of Platinum to know which alloy is best for the job at hand. Renowned for its remarkable durability, jewelers know that Platinum offers security in any setting. However, many alloys vary in composition and melting temperatures.
Let’s dive into three common platinum alloys:
Pure Platinum: The melting temperature of pure Platinum should be reached at 3215°F (1768°C).
Pt950/Ruthenium: This all-purpose alloy is perfect for rolling, casting, and fabrication. It's also the go-to choice for our Stuller experts and combines flexibility with durability. Its melting temperature should be reached at 3236°F (1780°C).
Pt950/Cobalt: This alloy is slightly magnetic and excels in casting. Its fluidity reduces imperfections and shrinkage, making it the perfect selection for intricate designs. Its melting temperature should be reached at 3015°F (1657°C).
Tip: Keep in mind that Pt/Co is more likely to oxidize — this might show up as dark, spotty areas on the setting or piece, and it can be removed. To effectively remove this oxidation, apply a firecoat to the piece, gently heat it, and then use a pickling solution for optimal results.
Pt900/Iridium: Stamped as Pt900, this softer alloy maintains Platinum’s signature reflectivity, making it especially ideal for setting diamonds and gemstones. Its melting temperature should be reached at 3236°F (1780°C).
With purity ranging from 90-95%, platinum alloys are considered hypoallergenic, eliminating the need for rhodium plating, and offering enduring brilliance to any customer’s piece. Platinum will also offer superior resistance to chemical attack in comparison to white gold, keeping diamonds and gemstones more secure over the lifetime of the piece.
Which Solder Should I Use?
The array of solder options—seamless, repair, cadmium-free, and white gold (14K/18K)—cater to distinct needs when it comes to platinum jewelry jobs or repairs. Choosing the appropriate solder starts with understanding its compatibility between the platinum alloy and the joint's integrity. So, which one is best?
For a safe and quality repair, it’s best to fully analyze the platinum piece for any imperfections or stones to determine your solder. Set pieces work best with 18K white cadmium-free solder as it will protect stones from any heat damage while still offering a strong joint — and a lustrous finish after polishing.
If there are no stones to protect, using a 1700C seamless solder works just as well. Additionally, when soldering platinum cobalt to platinum cobalt, stick to 1700C seamless solder for the best results. Remember, while it’s almost always safest to solder to avoid contamination or integrity issues with your platinum piece, a laser welder is a great option for repairing platinum next to heat-sensitive areas such as diamonds and gemstones.
PRO TIPS: To prevent your platinum piece from becoming brittle, avoid cadmium solder.
Getting Started: Supplies for Soldering Platinum
Soldering platinum requires precision and the right set of supplies. Remember, when working with platinum, it’s best practice to have a separate set of tools and supplies to prevent contamination and maintain their quality — ceramic and tungsten tools are your best solution!
Shop Stuller Products
For more Platinum essentials, visit Stuller.com/PlatinumTools to see what our experienced bench jewelers recommend for creating, repairing, or sizing platinum pieces.
Tips For a Successful Technique
Whether you’re distinguishing your platinum soldering process between repair work and custom work, a bench jeweler’s best strategy is always to understand how certain techniques and precautions will ensure a flawless outcome and preserve the metal's integrity.
Flux Usage and Preheating
Unlike gold and silver soldering, platinum doesn't require flux. Avoid its use when joining platinum alloys, except when combining them with gold alloys. Additionally, while preheating gold and silver pieces is common practice, platinum doesn't need preheating due to its unique properties.
Gas Selection and Soldering Techniques
For platinum work, propane or natural gas are optimal choices due to their lower carbon content compared to acetylene. Also, remember that platinum solders don't flow over distances. When soldering a seam, arrange small pieces of solder closely and follow the seam with the flame until it's soldered.
Thin Solder Pieces and Joint Fitting
Rolling your solder thinly and cutting it into small pieces allows for precise control, ensuring minimal amounts of solder are used at a time. Since solder cannot be moved once melted, employing new pieces is necessary. When assembling platinum joints, ensure they fit closely without gaps — solder should not be used for filling spaces. A properly soldered joint will exhibit a clean, shiny appearance. Avoid using fire coat or flux when soldering platinum to maintain its pristine finish.
Prioritize Safety in Platinum Soldering
Working with platinum demands meticulous attention to not only the organization of your workspace but also your safety. Here are a few things to keep in mind:
- The extremely high temperatures required for platinum work require caution and proper ventilation. Always wear safety gear, goggles, and protective garments such as aprons or gloves.
- Strict adherence to keeping your tools and equipment separate for platinum versus other metals is crucial for minimizing contamination. This ensures the purity and integrity of your customer’s platinum piece and your supplies.
- An organized bench not only boosts your efficiency but also minimizes the risk of accidents. Streamlining the workspace and bench leads to a more focused and safer soldering process.
Embracing the Brilliance of Platinum
By mastering soldering techniques in your Platinum journey, you can broaden your skill set, expand your offering, and craft pieces designed to be cherished for lifetimes. We hope our expert-driven tips and best practices give you the confidence to elevate your craftsmanship and continue to establish your reputation among your customers.
For more information on platinum, view our resources on how to offer and sell to customers with confidence, as well as previous Bench Jeweler articles that show detailed processes from our in-house experts: