How To Size Up A Platinum Ring With A Laser Welder
Sizing a platinum ring doesn't have to be difficult. Whether you're sizing a platinum ring up or down, using a laser makes it faster, stronger, and easier. The laser's pinpoint accuracy means that you don't have to remove stones when you size.
Platinum and Laser Welders: The Perfect Combination
When a surgeon performs a surgery, it is imperative to use the right tools. The same can be said about platinum.
In the past, because of it’s high melting point, platinum jewelry had to be taken apart prior to being able to repair it with a torch. Now, with laser welders readily available, this is no longer the case. This saves time for your shop, translating to higher productivity, increased capabilities, and more profits.
These benefits fully outweigh the significant costs of a laser. With the accuracy and concentrated heat of the laser, many things that were impossible are now possible.
Remember to remove all stones before beginning this process.
Determine how much metal needs to be added.
Using a divider, mark the area.
Using a jeweler's saw, saw the shank accordingly. It is recommended not to cut all the way through on the second cut. Instead, use pliers to break it off. This prevents the piece from flying off. (Size is represented by 2.55mm or 1/10th of an inch.)
Pull apart the two ends.
Pull apart the two ends of the ring, and then slide the ring up the mandrel.
Using a three square needle file, create a chamfer (groove) along the seam. This will help create a strong weld, as the metal will fill the groove when melted.
Using a hammer, flatten the cut piece from the ring.
File a chamfer on each end of the shank on all edges.
File a chamfer on each end of the shank on all edges. For ease of handling, holding the sizing stock in pliers while you chamfer one end.
Insert the stock into the opening.
It should extend in all directions.
It should extend in all directions, so you wont reduce the shanks original dimensions when you blend the joint after sizing. All edges of the shank ends and sizing stock need to be chamfered so the laser can penetrate all the way through to bond the metal at the core of the joint.
Rotate and direct the laser.
Use 30 gage Platinum Ruthenium laser wire to fill the chamfers.
Rotate and direct the laser into all sides of both joints. Overfill all the chambers to leave room for blending with the original shank. Re-adjust the laser and smooth the joint joining the fill areas to the shank and stock.
Smooth inside of the ring.
Use a sanding cartridge roll.
Using a sanding cartridge roll, smooth the inside of the ring.
Round the ring on a mandrel.
Using the nylon end of a combination hammer.
Round the ring on a mandrel using the nylon end of a combination hammer. Turn the ring over on the mandrel and continue rounding.
Blend, polish, and buff the ring.
There should be no evidence that the ring has been sized.
After blending, polishing, and buffing there should be no evidence that the ring has been sized. There should be no pits in the laser filled areas, tool marks, or color differences between the added piece and the ring.
Inspect for cracks or other issues.
After rounding check for cracks or other viewable issues.
Inspect the joint after rounding for cracks or other issues and check for loose stones.
Want to know more? Read more on this topic below!
The BlogLooking for more tools and techniques to make working with Platinum a whole lot easier? View a Step-by-Step Guide to Working With Platinum on the blog!
From The BenchRead more repair tips and tricks, on page 16, in the new From The Bench!
More From BenchJewelerMaster Bench Jeweler Angela Busby guides us through the platinum working process here on benchjeweler.com!