Explore essential tips and techniques with this guide to working with silver for bench jewelers.
As the price of gold continues to fluctuate, many jewelers — especially those just getting started — are turning to silver as a reliable and cost-effective alternative. Not only is it easier on the budget, but silver is also one of the most forgiving metals for learning foundational techniques at the bench. Whether you’re just starting your journey in jewelry making or looking to refine your silver-working skills, this guide will walk you through key safety tips, alloy types, and beginner-friendly techniques.
Safety Tips for Working With Silver
Before you start sawing, soldering, or shaping, it's crucial to establish a safe and functional workspace. Here are some baseline safety protocols to follow:
- Always wear safety glasses or compatible eye protection when working with metal.
- Tie back long hair and avoid wearing loose-fitting clothes or accessories that could get caught in tools or flames.
- Keep a fire extinguisher and a well-stocked first aid kit nearby if your shop lacks a sprinkler system.
- Ensure you have access to running water or an emergency eyewash bottle in case of chemical exposure.
- Maintain proper ventilation and lighting in your workspace to reduce fumes and improve visibility.
- Read all manuals and spec sheets for your tools, machines, and chemicals — understanding how they work is critical to using them safely and effectively.
Silver Alloys and Their Properties
Not all silver is the same. There are a few common silver alloys that possess different benefits and exhibit different characteristics.
At the base of all silver alloys is fine silver (99.9% pure silver, .1% trace elements). It is soft, ductile, malleable, and one of the whitest pure metals on Earth. However, it’s not ideal for settings or components that bear any stress. That is why it’s mixed with other elements — primarily copper, zinc, nickel, or others — to improve its durability and workability.
Sterling Silver
Sterling silver is the industry standard for most silver jewelry, offering a balance of being strong yet soft and has been used across the world since the 12th century. It develops a patina very nicely for an extra layer of character.
Sterlium Plus®
Sterlium Plus possesses enhanced strength and tarnish resistance as it does not oxidize like sterling silver. This makes it great for detailed work and casting.
Continuum® Sterling Silver
Continuum sterling silver is a premium alloy that takes the enhanced strength and tarnish resistance of other alloys and makes it able to be age hardened, which improves the toughness of the alloy.
How Is Silver Different From White Gold and Platinum?
Cost: Silver is much more affordable than gold or platinum, making it the perfect entry metal for both jewelers and consumers.
Workability: Silver is softer and easier to shape, which is great for learning.
Durability: While easy to work with, silver is also not as secure for stones due to its softness.
How to Anneal Silver
Annealing is the process of using heat to soften metal and make it easier to work with. As you work the metal by bending, hammering, or shaping it, you loose that pliability as the metal becomes hard and brittle. Annealing reverses this effect by rearranging the metal’s internal structure and restoring its flexibility.
Step 1: Apply Flux
Start by applying a flux — such as Firescoff® Ceramic Flux — evenly over the surface of your silver to prevent oxidation while you anneal the metal.
Step 2: Heat Silver
Place the metal on a fire safe work surface. Heat the metal with a torch until the entire piece turns a cherry red color. The cherry red color indicates that the metal has heated up to the annealing temperature.
Step 3: Quench in Warm Water
Once the metal reaches the annealing temperature, quench it in warm water to clean off the fire coat.
Step 4: Work the Metal
Use the now annealed silver in your jewelry making. If you are forging or hammering, you may have to repeat the annealing process a few times as you work. Silver alloys can handle being annealed approximately five times maximum. Beyond that, the metal loses integrity, burns easily, and becomes brittle.
Tips for Working With Silver
Follow these tips as you learn how to work with silver in jewelry making.
- Gentle Touch: Silver bends and forms more easily than gold or platinum. Too much force can damage your work.
- Sawing Corners: When making sharp turns while sawing, jog the blade in place to create space for the pivot.
- Let the Saw Work: Forcing the saw will only lead to frustration and broken blades.
- Solder First, Then Cut: It’s often easier and more accurate to solder pieces together before cutting detailed elements.
- Rolling Mill Investment: A rolling mill allows you to recycle scrap into usable sheet and wire, saving you money over time.
How to Solder Silver
Soldering silver requires both precision and patience. However, with the right materials and technique, strong and beautiful joints can be achieved.
Step 1: Clean Everything
Start by ensuring your solder, metal, and workspace are free of dirt, oil, or anything that might cause the silver to oxidize while working.
Step 2: Cut Solder
Use a solder coupon to create small chips appropriate for your project.
Step 3: Apply Flux
Place the piece in the third hand and apply a flux, such as Firescoff® Ceramic Flux, evenly on the piece to prevent oxidation.
Step 4: Preheat Carefully
Lightly warm up the piece using a neutral flame to avoid overheating. This will help the solder release from the pick and adhere to the piece.
Step 5: Place Solder
Heat a solder chip, being careful not to overheat. If you notice the solder rolling and fuming with vaporization, then you likely overheated the solder chip and caused solder burnout. If that is the case, start again with a new solder chip. Pick up the solder ball with your solder pick using a quick swooping motion. Place the solder in the center of the joint.
Step 6: Sweep the Flame
Use a steady, sweeping motion with the torch to evenly heat the joint until the solder flows. Practice step soldering if you are making multiple solder joints close to each other. For instance, your first joint should be used with hard solder, the next with medium, and then the next with easy. This is to prevent remelting of already soldered joints.
Step 7: Quench in Warm Water
When you finish, place the piece in warm water to remove the fire coating and prepare the piece for cleaning.
Tips for Soldering Silver
Follow these tips as you begin soldering silver components together or resize rings.
- Label Your Solder: Scribe the type (hard, medium, easy) on each corner of the coupon for easy identification as you continue using it.
- Clean Before You Join: Remove casting skin with a file and run the piece through an ultrasonic cleaner to ensure a solid connection.
- Tight Gaps Are Key: A tight fit leads to better brazing and reduces the risk of porosity.
- Match Your Solder: Use hard solder for ring sizing and easy (EZ) solder for basic assembly.
- Choose the Right Pick: Titanium or tungsten-tipped picks are ideal as they handle high heat and are affordable.
- Control Your Heat: Use a neutral flame. Rolling solder is acceptable when first heating up solder to pick up with pick. If you see popping and sparking, it is likely the piece has solder burnout and vaporization has occurred because it got too hot. This burns out the alloy metals.
Sharpening Your Skills With Silver
Silver is one of the most rewarding metals to work with as a bench jeweler — especially when you’re just starting out. Its affordability, pliability, and accessibility make it ideal for building foundational skills while exploring your creativity. Keep practicing, stay safe, and don’t be afraid to experiment and learn through trial and error.