Learn the setting types you’ll see most at the bench to approach every repair and design with confidence.
No matter where you are in your career, you’ve most likely experienced one of these scenarios: a customer brings in an heirloom piece with a worn setting or you're asked to set a specific diamond or gemstone into a new custom design. Whether you're rebuilding a damaged head, replacing a stone, or starting from scratch, understanding how a stone is — or needs to be — secured is one of the first steps to getting the job done right.
This quick guide breaks down the most common structural settings and setting methods you’ll encounter at the bench, grouped for easy reference.
Use it as a refresher, a training tool, or a way to stay sharp when you’re troubleshooting a piece or prepping for your next project.
Common Structural Settings
These are the setting types you’ll most often work with when placing or replacing a center stone or side stones and building custom designs.
Prong-Forward Styles
Think of these as “open settings” that use prongs to secure the stone.
Basket: An open, basket-like structure that holds the stone with prongs. These are strong and versatile settings but require regular prong checks, especially on higher-wear rings.
Cocktail-Style: A setting resembling a cocktail glass that features three or four prongs that meet at a point beneath the stone.
Peg: A setting with a peg that fits into the shank through a drilled hole. Make sure the peg is properly seated and aligned before soldering into the shank to avoid off-center stones.
Halo-Style: A primary or center stone framed by smaller stones.
Cluster Top: Multiple stones are set closely together to appear as one larger stone. Remember, tight spaces between stones can make polishing tricky — use soft tools and low pressure around prongs.
Enclosed and Flush-Set Styles
These settings surround the stone more than a typical prong setting for added protection.
Bezel: A metal rim that encircles the girdle of the stone. This setting type is a great choice for softer gemstones, such as opals, since the rim can add extra security for your customer’s stone.
Half Bezel: A metal rim that only partially encircles the stone’s girdle.
Cabochon: Designed to secure the rounded tops and flat bottoms of cabochon- or rose-cut stones. A pro tip for this setting type: always confirm the underside of the stone sits flat to avoid uneven surfaces stressing the setting.
Solid Base: A flat base that supports the stone from underneath. This setting style will typically be used when building custom designs.
Illusion Top: Metal surrounds the primary stone to make it appear larger.
Channel and Strip Styles
Ideal for accent or side stones in continuous rows.
Bar/Channel: Stones are held between two parallel metal bars or channels.
Strip: Multiple stones set in a continuous row.
Pro Tip: Keep spacing consistent and walls clean across all strip, bar, or channel settings. Uneven seats can cause stones to shift over time. If you're working on a repair or replacement, be sure to communicate this risk with your customer and provide education on how to care for their piece going forward.
Common Setting Methods
These refer to specific techniques used to secure stones, especially in accented designs.
Prong Method
Shared Prong: Two stones share a single prong to reduce metal visibility.
Bead and Pavé Techniques
A type of setting technique used to set small stones within the metal of a piece.
Pavé: Small stones set closely together with tiny beads of metal. A sharp graver and clean bead work will make or break the final look — paying closer attention to detail, keeping your tools polished and making sure stone sizes are consistent will help make this technique work with you and not against you at the bench.
Scallop: U-shaped cuts in prongs that create a scalloped edge.
French: Wedged metal with bright-cut surroundings holds stones close together.
Pinpoint: Small individual stones set with shared prongs.
Fishtail: Raised metal from the shank that resembles a fish’s tail.
Frame Methods
Flush: Stones are set into the shank and sit level with the metal. Proper depth is key here — any stones should be level with the surface without compromising the metal thickness underneath.
Cement: An adhesive setting typically used with pearls. Remember to always properly clean both your metal and any stones before applying your adhesive to avoid any oils or debris that could affect the bond.
Choosing the Right Setting at the Bench
In any setting job — like most — there’s no one-size-fits-all solution. Every project is different, and the right approach depends on a mix of technical choices, preference, and customer expectations. Keep these key factors in mind when choosing or repairing a setting.
Durability vs. Look
A customer may want a delicate, minimal prong setting to show off their diamond — but if it’s for a daily-wear ring, you’ll want to guide them toward a sturdier option, such as a bezel or low-profile setting
Stone Type Matters
Bottom line: not every stone can be treated the same. For example, a high-profile prong setting might work for a diamond, but it’s a risky choice for a softer gemstone. Fragile stones often need more metal coverage and protective settings to reduce the chance of damage and additional care from the wearer.
Customer Needs
Someone who works with their hands might need a flush-set or low-set style to avoid loosening over time, and others may prefer the extra shine of pavé accents but aren’t aware of the maintenance involved. A quick conversation about a customer’s lifestyle and expectations can steer your setting recommendation in the right direction and prevent problems later.
Taking a moment to evaluate every factor of a job, such as the stone, setting style, and customer’s priorities not only makes your job easier, but it shows your expertise and builds trust in your work and keeps customer’s returning.
Tools and Supplies for Every Job
From gravers and burs to microscopes and polishing wheels, having the right tools on hand makes every job smoother. At Stuller, we carry everything you need to ensure clean, consistent work, start to finish. Check out our comprehensive offering of tools and supplies that support your work.
Support You Can Count On
The right setting does more than secure a stone — it impacts the look, feel, and longevity of the piece. Whether you're creating a custom design or tackling a quick fix for your customer, understanding these foundational styles helps you work smarter, faster, and with confidence.
At Stuller, we’re here to support your work from start to finish. With the settings, tools, and resources you rely on, you can stay ready for any project that comes across your bench. Keep this guide on hand, and know that whenever you need supplies or solutions, we’ve got your back.