Articles

1. How do I identify the metal type and purity before starting work?

Metal verification should always occur before applying heat or performing structural repairs. Incorrect metal identification can lead to contamination, poor solder flow, or irreversible damage.

Begin by checking for hallmarks and manufacturer stamps, then confirm composition using acid testing, conductivity testing, or XRF analysis when necessary. Pay close attention to plating layers, mixed alloys, and evidence of prior solder work, all of which can influence repair outcomes. Accurate metal identification ensures proper solder selection, controlled working temperatures, and predictable finishing results.

What should I inspect for signs of wear or previous repairs?

Thorough visual inspection under magnification is critical during intake. Examine the piece for thinning metal, porosity, stress fractures, worn prongs, hidden solder seams, or structural fatigue. This can allow you to earn more work from the customer as well — if the customer needs a sizing and you notice the center stone’s prongs could use retipping, you not only protect the integrity of the piece, but also create an opportunity to increase the total value of the job for the customer and your business.

Previous repairs often introduce variables that affect sizing, stone setting, polishing, or refinishing. Identifying these conditions early allows you to anticipate complications and reduces the likelihood of unexpected failures during bench work.

How do I document diamond condition to reduce liability?

Diamond documentation is one of the most important liability protections available to jewelers. Before accepting any job, inspect diamonds under magnification and record existing chips, abrasions, or identifying inclusions. Capture clear intake photographs and document distinguishing characteristics that can later verify a diamond’s condition. This can be done easily by taking a time-stamped photograph with a Gemax Pro- II XL Digital Microscope.

Proper documentation establishes transparency, protects the jeweler, and reassures customers that their stones are handled responsibly throughout the repair process.

How can I determine if a diamond is natural or lab-grown?

Correct diamond identification is essential for proper handling and accurate customer disclosure. As a best practice, jewelers should have both a diamond tester and a diamond screener in their shop.

Diamond testing separates diamonds from simulants such as Moissanite and Cubic Zirconia. Diamond testers measure a stone’s thermal and/or electrical conductivity to determine whether it has the physical properties of a diamond.

Diamond screening separates natural diamonds from lab-grown diamonds. Screening is not the same as full identification. A screener will either confirm that a stone is likely natural or refer it for additional testing when the results are inconclusive. Diamond screeners are increasingly important today because of the significant price difference between natural and lab-grown diamonds. Verifying a customer’s stone before beginning any work not only ensures accurate identification but also protects you from potential accusations of stone switching.

How do I know if a gemstone can tolerate heat, cleaning, or repair work?

Not all gemstones respond equally to heat, pressure, or chemical exposure. Misidentification or overlooked treatments can result in irreversible damage during repair. Identify the gemstone type and check for enhancements, such as fracture filling, dyeing, impregnation, or surface coatings. Stones with treatments or inherent inclusions may require removal prior to repair.

Avoid ultrasonic cleaning or high heat when working with sensitive or treated gemstones and adjust procedures accordingly. For quick reference, consult Stuller’s Gemstone Care Guide to determine ultrasonic and steam-cleaning safety.

What information should I record during intake to protect the job?

A detailed intake record establishes accountability and sets clear expectations before work begins. Document measurements, stone count, metal type, visible damage, repair scope, and customer requests. Pre-made repair forms offer a convenient way to keep up with these records.

Supporting photos, written notes, and customer acknowledgment help prevent misunderstandings and provide reference points throughout the repair or customization process. Well-documented intake procedures reduce disputes while improving workflow consistency across the shop.