For some, reducing a platinum ring by one size can be a challenge. We’ve even seen platinum rings come in for repair, which reveal a white gold seam. Shocking, we know.
Because of this, we thought it a good idea to give a quick refresher on the proper way to resize a platinum ring.
For this project, we are going to do some welding, since it leaves no seam and yields a totally invisible result. Here are the steps:
- Step #1: Cut the ring, remove 2.54mm of shank (to go down one size), and bend the ring together, so that the ends meet.
- Step #2: Using a three square file, file a chamber (v-groove) along the seam.
- Step #3: Roll the piece you cut from the ring through your rolling mill to a .5mm thickness.
- Step #4: Cut a small piece from this and wedge it into the ring’s gap with a chamber groove. Make sure that it sticks out about 1mm all the way around the cross section of the shank.
- Step #5: Put on your Platinum #5 welding goggles, and use an oxidizing flame of a propane/oxygen, hydrogen/oxygen or natural gas/oxygen mix to melt the over hanging platinum all around the seam. It will fill the gap as it melts.
- Step #6: Quench the ring (if there are no stones) or let cool.
- Step #7: Gently file away excess metal, round, clean and polish.
- Step #8: Check the size and adjust as necessary.
You’ll notice using the metal from the host ring, instead of solder, makes the seamless and invisible repair you want.
[Adapted from: Stuller Standard – September 2003]